🔗 Share this article

When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. But, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.